A few years ago in this space, I discussed a frustrating situation I had with Matching Custom Paint Colors. In my mind, I couldn't fathom how a paint shop ...Source: http://woodworking.about.com/b/2011/01/26/matching-paint-colors-to-print-colors.htm
Source: http://woodworking.about.com/od/woodworkingplansdesigns/ss/LoveSeatGliderRocker.htm
Source: http://my-solar-panel.blogspot.com/2008/08/solar-powered-pumps-cost-free.html
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Source: http://woodworking.about.com/od/finishing/p/woodConditioner.htm
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rain station.
ool chest, decorated with detailed marquetry, become display platforms for one-of-a-kind plumb bobs, trammels points, and measuring devices.
Source: http://villagecarpenter.blogspot.com/2010/10/step-right-up-and-feast-your-eyes.html
It snowed 21 inches in Stuyvesant Cove Park yesterday! Combined with the Great Boxing Day Blizzard, there's been a lot more shoveling going on than usual. Chris Fowler, our Park Maintenance superstar, has been getting quite the workout- but many people don't know that Chris is also a great chronicler of the Park and its many changes. In addition to the one of the building practically buried, check out this gorgeous shot of one of the park beds:
One of the most wonderful things about Solar One and Stuyvesant Cove Park is the dedication of our volunteers who do so much to help make both Solar One and the Park so special. Here are two of our Park Angels, Wendy Byrne and Geoffrey Berresford, pitching in to help Chris shovel all that snow this morning (all photos by Chris Fowler):
Snow Angel Wendy
Snow Angel Geoff. Amazingly, he feels no need for gloves?
Thanks to both of you, and to all the Park Angels and Program Volunteers who donate their time, energy, enthusiasm and skills year after year! �We could never do it all without you!
Source: http://solar1.org/2011/01/28/solar-one-in-the-snow-great-pics-and-big-thanks/
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Source: http://woodworking.about.com/od/woodworkingplansdesigns/ss/DovetailDrawers.htm
Solar panels, mounting hardware, inverter, wiring and conduit, specialized meters: these are the components of all photovoltaic (PV) systems. But it?s the solar panels themselves that not only make up the bulk of your solar quote, but whose technology, costs, and applications are the most hotly contested. People ask all the time what the differences are among panels?here?s a thorough but lay-person friendly answer.
Before the overview, a quick vocab lesson: A solar cell is the actual, wafer-thin semiconductor that produces electricity. A solar module is multiple solar cells connected to one another. A solar panel is one or more solar modules sealed up in a single object (frame) and used as part of a solar array. A solar array is the whole shebang mentioned above: the solar panels plus all the ancillary equipment necessary to not only produce electricity from sunlight, but to channel and use it.
Crystalline Solar
Crystalline solar panels have been around, in varying stages of efficiency and attractiveness, for decades. They?re on space stations and satellites?they?re reliable and they last for ages. The semicondutor?the element responsible for the actual electric generation?is a thin sheet of crystalline silicon. There are two kinds of crystalline solar cells, which differ in how they?re manufactured, their efficiency levels, and ultimately, their end cost to the consumer.
The crystal growth and extrusion process is time- and labor-intensive, and there is great materials loss involved in cutting the circular crystal wafers into usable octagonal solar cells, which is why solar modules made with these cells are the most expensive ones on the market.
Polycrystalline solar modules have a uniform appearance. Their color is a prettily mottled blue-black. Efficiency is usually more like 12-15 percent. These are the go-to type of solar panel for residential installations in particular, where the slight step down from monocrystalline efficiency is more than offset by the cost savings. You?ll hear monocrystalline solar panels referred to as ?the best?; this isn?t necessarily true. Mono- and poly-cells simply have different niches.Amorphous or Thin-Film Solar
This is the technology that?s set the industry abuzz with news of ultra-cheap solar: $1/watt or less. For the record, they?re talking about manufactured costs here?by no means does that number reflect what you could expect to pay as a consumer. Super cheap solar is indeed nothing more than a rumor. It?s simply fact: this is high technology. High technology costs money. Federal, state, and utility solar incentives, however, can combine to lower the net cost of solar energy systems drastically, and turn a big ticket item into one excellent investment.
But yes, it?s exciting that there is a cheaper solar technology afoot, and it has some great applications. Thin film can be made of different materials, sometimes silicon based and sometimes using chemical polymers as the semiconductor. Thin film drawbacks? Very low efficiency compared to crystalline, with rates typically in the 8-9 percent range; and dubious life expectancy. Crystalline solar panels are warrantied for 25-30 years, and history has proven that they can and will produce energy long after that range. Thin-film has no such tried and true promise of efficacy, which means it can be difficult to predict its returns over a longer period. It?s also easier to damage. Crystalline solar modules, encased in glass and weather-sealed, are built to tough out the elements and have been proven to do so successfully. Additionally, thin film only works for solar installation sites where space is no object and angle no concern?either a perfectly tilted roof (best angle for solar is equal to the latitude of the install site) or a perfectly flat one.
In summary:
Monocrystalline: Most efficient; most expensive; attractive octagonal design; especially good for solar installations where space is at a premium.
Polycrystalline: Efficient; moderately priced; classic ?solar panel? coloration and design; best all-around choice.
Thin film: Inefficient; cheap; best for commercial installations where higher quantity can compensate for lower quality.
Source: http://blog.freecleansolar.com/2010/02/20/solar-panels-guide.aspx?ref=rss
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I carve wooden boots regularly and my latest is a pair of “Brogues” carved from a piece of Amur cherry .
I used a Foredom power carver with a flex shaft and the piece is finished with tung oil.
Source: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/43577
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Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/ResidentialSolarPanels/~3/ueiSRc8_rRQ/gridtie-system-work
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Source: http://villagecarpenter.blogspot.com/2010/09/chip-carving-video.html
Source: http://my-solar-panel.blogspot.com/2008/11/photovoltaic-solar-cells-important.html
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Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/NrBn/~3/t1h5Di_tLXM/solar-universe-makes-solar-more.html
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Well I finally got some time and build a new workbench/assembly table. I was inspired by Carlos Calderon’s video on YouTube. Thank you, Carlos. It is made from 2×4s and the top is a solid wood core door with birch veneer.
Got that idea on Jocks. I’ll have to say that it is heavy, solid, and square. I am happy about going that route.
Applied a couple coats of Minwax Polycrylic. First time using the product, it went on easy and dries quickly even
this lovely cold spell we are having here in central IL. I know over time the top will get bunged so I can always overlay some hardboard or something. The bench took about 6 hours or so to construct but the drawers, that’s another story! Everything came to a grinding stop. I first tried to make the case out of 3/4’’ plywood from Menards. Besides the fact it was bowed, I sized the case wrong(UGH!). Well anyhow, making along story short,Drawers are made from 1/2’’ birch ply and 100# full extension glides. Added front vise, that is going to be handy. The project is a little rude and crude but that’s to be expected considering the source, me! I learned a lot and want to build some more shop furniture for experience then bring it into the house. Thanks for takin’ a look, Jack.
Source: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/43592
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Source: http://woodworking.about.com/od/finishing/qt/RouterSander.htm
This is my first time posting in the sales forum here on LJ’s. So if I break a rule, please forgive and just tell me what to do in order to fix it….
I have 106bdft of 10/4, 7’ long, S2S African Mahogany (total of 9 boards).
Phone David at 214-620-8362
I want to sell this entire lot at once, if possible. I’ll sell it all for $500… that’s less than $5/bdft..
Individual board pricing is $5.5/bdft for the lesser figure and $7/bdft for the highly figured. Not sure how many pics I can post so I’ll post a few to give you some idea of each… I have good pics of all the boards… so if you’re interested let me know… or just come on over, look at them, and take em home with ya..
8.5” wide $7/bdft material
8.5” wide $5.5/bdft material
thanks,
david
Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/NrBn/~3/zvIPSE3keFE/sunvalley-solar-gains-manufacturer.html
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I have recently started dabbling with framing, this is my second frame and though it seemed such a simple project I found that the quality of your tools definatly matters. I started with some discarded pine molding a local contracter was getting rid of. Some of it was bowed or damaged on the ends. I did the miter cuts on a cheapo portable tablesaw i borrowed from a friend (I’m still scouring craigslist for my TS). The cuts showed quite significant gaps so I used some elmers wood glue, filled the gaps and sanded while the glue was still wet to pick up the same color of the boards (learned that trick on the forums here), what I failed to learn was that glue does not except stain. After the cuts were done I joined everything using a craftsman biscuit cutter and some small 1 inch biscuits. I then hand sanded and used a little water to raise the grain. This is where I found out glue does not like stain. I applied a coat of ebony stain and noticed what I now know was glue splotches, I tried and tried to apply stain and nothing so I jumped on the internet and continued to read post after post about glue not taking stain and how to fix glue splotches (most people said resand resand resand.) Well I resigned myself to fixing it and began sanding away the stain and glue but as I went it began to take on a nice pattern and look a little antiqued so I did a little more artsy sanding and than finished it off with 3 coats of satin polyurethane I used acyrilic sheet for the glass and viola. You will have to forgive my rookiness since I am definatly a rookie but through my mistake I learned a technique which I think makes for a beautiful finish, and I also learned the valuable lesson of prep prep prep before finish. Thanks for looking.
Source: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/43557
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